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Bosch 1587AVSP Progressor Top-Handle Jig Saw Kit
Bosch invented the jig saw, and, with their Progressor top-handle model, they're getting close to perfecting it. The Progressor has a nicely shaped handle, tapered where other saws are not, and a nice rubber grip that lets users (of all hand sizes) steer the tool firmly in hand. (Some toolmakers ignore ergonomics, but not Bosch--and we appreciate it.) The safety mechanism works well with the trigger, and the cut is super smooth. We like the variable-speed dial, the light weight, and the foot plate's plastic cover, which ensures that surfaces won't get scratched as they can by saws with metal plates. The blade-change system--if a little tricky at first--works great. No question about it, this jig saw keeps up Bosch's reputation as one of the prime movers in the power tool industry. --Michael Shilling
Bosch 1587AVSP Progressor Top-Handle Jig Saw Kit Accessories
Bosch T234X Progressor Wood Blade (5-Pack)
Bosch T5002 10-Piece Assorted T-Shank Jig Saw Blade Set
Porter-Cable 690LR 11 Amp 1-3/4 Fixed Base Horsepower Router
Mirka 23-615-AP 5-Inch 8-Hole Assorted Grits (10 Each Of 80/100/120/150/220) Dustless Hook-and-Loop Sanding Disks
Bosch TC21HC 21-Piece T-Shank Contractor Jig Saw Blade Set
Bosch 101AO 3-Inch 20-Tooth Jig Saw Blades, 5-Pack
Kreg K3MS K3 Master Pocket Hole Jig System
Porter-Cable 343K 5-inch Random Orbit Sander Kit - Hook & Loop Pad
Black & Decker LI3000 3.6-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless Screwdriver
Bosch T123X Progressor Metal Blade (5-Pack)
Bosch 1587AVSP Progressor Top-Handle Jig Saw Kit Reviews
I looked at both the 1590 and the 1587 and had an opportunity to use them in the field before deciding. I looked at other brands (Dewalt, Porter Cable)but decided that the Bosch is the best series available because of blade control and balance. But for the precise work I have to do with a jig saw, I prefer the 1587. The 1590 blade changing mechanism is just simply the best out there today. Great cabinet shop tool for cutting out sinks, etc. (I don't use a Collins coping foot). 1-Weight: The 1587 is lighter and therefore eaiser and more precise to control.
Hope this helps. The deciding factors for me were 2:. In addition the blade does not project quite as far as the 1587. I use my jig saw 60% of the time for coping joints. If I could have combined the two I would have given the result 6 stars. This doesn't make much difference until you are using the tiny scroll blade (119 bo) that i need for coping. The weight of the 1590 makes it awkward when trying to turn and rotate as you need to do to cope with a jig saw. I owned the Bosch 1581vs for 20 years before it finally played out (the blade hold mechanism wore out).
These are the best two on the market, and both have their pluses and minuses. The 1590 has a taller handle. It is also very powerful. 2-Distance from handle to blade.
T101BR - Wood blade, downward cutting (splinter free on top surface). 2. Not at all what I would call difficult or confusing, but it's certainly not like changing a quick change drill bit or Milwaukee Sawz-all blade. (6.05/5). (9.02/5). (9.78/5).
Especially since there are a couple typos in the official list of included blades. (13.89/5). Finally, I thought I'd list the blades that come with this version, to see if it's worth the 7 dollars over the 1587AVSK. 1587AVSK comes with 3 blades instead of 9 (and the less expensive blades at that). T101AO - Wood blade, specifically for curved cuts, splinter free. 5/64" - 3/4" material. T144D - Wood blade, straight and fast cuts.
One has to carefully organize the cord in the case and hope it will fully close every time. Not the worst case in this sense I've ever had, but certainly not the best. Progressor toothing for thick and thin material. (8.49/5). T234X - Wood blade, straight fine cuts. (7.00/5).
(6.97/5). Price per five blade pack for each is listed. T118A - Metal blade, basic straight cuts. 3/64" - 3/4" material. So that's 15.49 in blades. (7.87/5). The case.
1/4" - 2 3/8" material. At least the tool can be put in the case without removing the blade, but it will need to be in the upper half of it's stroke for a normal length blade.
T345XF - Wood with nails or metal blade. This seems to be the main item Bosch improved for the 1590/1591 jigswas, so if it's a major concern might be worth the extra 50 bucks. This is more like a three step process rather than one step. T123X - Metal blade, fast and long life, Progressor toothing for use in thick and thin material. 1/16" - 3/64" material. so I'd say there is an extra 11 dollars worth of blades in this kit.
Blade changes are a bit involved. 3/16" - 1 1/4" material. 1. (8.36/5).
First this tools "low" points, which keep it from being a perfect tool:. 3/16" - 3 5/8" material. T101DP - Wood blade, specifically for angled cuts. All of the Bosch jigsaws receive high praise for their cutting performance, so I thought I'd provide some info I would have appreciated before making this purchase (which I in no way regret).
This case suffers from the same fault as so many tool cases, there is limited space to store the power cord or to store additional blades. T118G - Metal blade, straight cuts in thin material. Progressor toothing for thick and thin material. 1/4" - 2 3/8" material.
THe Bosch jigsaw worked beautifully right out of the box. Very clean cuts using the progressor blades that came with the saw. Very satisfied with the performance after using it several times.
Until I read about and bought this saw, I was unaware of the differences that existed between jigsaws. This thing will run slow in the air and barely bat an eye when you bring it in contact with plywood all at a slow RPM. I've made 24" cuts though quarter inch steel to the point that the motor was dangerously hot (too hot to touch) and it kept on going. It is easiest with the carriage all the way in the up position, but I can get them in there either way. I recommend this product highly. I really like that if you want to cut slow, it doesn't bog down and stop as soon as it hits force.
The blades are not hard to change, I don't understand why all the fuss about that. The forward-back action of the blade (optional setting) really chews a fast line through a board. A cheap jigsaw may run slow in the air, but you can't control it when you are cutting. I grew up using a plastic jigsaw. This thing is built tough and has a good motor. As far as I am concerned, I never want to have to make a cut with any other jig saw. The metal base is rigid and sturdy, unlike all plastic saws, which are lousy and wiggle all around.
(I make a lot of slow cuts to keep the temps down).
It is simply a wonderfully designed machine that doesn't just do the job, it makes the job fun. I go out of my way to find reason to use this saw.
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